Neretva
Neretva is the largest river of the eastern part of the Adriatic basin. It has been harnessed and controlled to a large extent by four HE power-plants with large dams (as higher than 15 meters) and their storage lakes, but it still recognized for its natural beauty , diversity of its landscape and visual attractiveness . At its delta, a specific way of human living has developed, which now is passing away. Rivers are the backbone of human society, but freshwater ecosystems have suffered a lot from an increasing population and the associated development pressures. One of the most valuable natural resource of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia is its freshwater richness contained by an abundant wellspring and clear rivers, indeed, a natural treasure of great importance yet to be evaluated, acknowledge and appreciated. From the Drina river on the east to the Una river on the west and from the Sava river on the north to the Adriatic sea on the south, Bosnia and Herzegovina is genuine European freshwater reservoir. Situated in between all these major regional rivers the Neretva basin contain most significant portion of fresh drinking water. In that dense water system network the Neretva holds a significant position among rivers of Dinaric Alps region, regarding its divers ecosystems and habitats, flora and fauna, cultural and historic heritage, but also as Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and most importantly its clean, fresh drinking water. Geography and hydrology of the Neretva river - clean, cold and under a constant threat.]] The Neretva flows through Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia and it is largest karst river in the Dinaric Alps in the entire eastern part of the Adriatic basin, which belongs to the Adriatic river watershed. The total length is 230 km, of which 208 km are in Bosnia and Herzegovina, while the final 22 km are in the Dubrovnik-Neretva County of Croatia . Size of the Neretva watershed is 10,380 km2 in total, in Bosnia and Herzegovina 10,110 km2 with addition of the Trebišnjica river watershed and in Croatia 280 km2. Average discharge at profile Žitomislići in Bosnia and Herzegovina is 233 m3/s and at the mouth in Croatia is 341 m3/s in addition with the Trebišnjica river 402 m3/s. The Trebišnjica river basin is included to the Neretva watershed due to physical link of two basins by porous karst terrain . Sectioning Geographically and hydrologically the Neretva is divided in three section . Its source and headwaters gorge are situated deep in the Dinaric Alps at the base of the Zelengora and Lebršnik mountain, under the Gredelj peak 1,227 m.a.s.l. First section of the Neretva course from source all the way to the town of Konjic, the Upper Neretva ( ), flow from south to north - north-west as most of the Bosnia and Herzegovina rivers belonging to the Danube watershed, and cover some 1,390 km2 with average elevation of 1.2%. Right below Konjic, the Neretva briefly expanding into a wide valley which provides fertile agricultural land. There exists a large Jablaničko Lake, artificially formed after construction of dam near Jablanica. Second section begins from the confluence of the Neretva and the Rama river between Konjic and Jablanica where the Neretva suddenly takes a southern course. From Jablanica, the Neretva enter a largest canyons of its course, running through steep slopes of magnificent mountains of Prenj, Čvrsnica and Čabulja reaching 800–1200 meters in depth. Here man once again turn to the river for energy and created three more hydroelectric dam between Jablanica and Mostar. When the Neretva expend for the second and final time, it already reached third section of its course. Often called Bosnian and Herzegovinian California, vally of the downstream Neretva indeed is a true “The Golden State” of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia. The last 30 km of the Neretva's stream form an alluvial delta, before the river empties into the Adriatic Sea. Tributaries , Bosnia and Herzegovina.]] Rivers of the Pridvoričko Vrelo, the Tatinac (also known as the Jezernica), the Gornji and Donji Krupac, the Ljuta (also known as the Dindolka), the Jesenica, the Bjelimićka Rijeka, the Slatinica, the Račica, the Rakitnica, the Konjička Ljuta, the Trešanica, the Neretvica, the Rama, the Doljanka, the Drežanka, the Grabovica, the Radobolja, the Lištica with the Ugrovača and Mostarsko Blato, (the Jasenica), the Trebižat flow into the Neretva from the right, while the Jezernica, the Živašnica (also known as the Živanjski Potok), the Ladjanica, the Župski Krupac, the Bukovica, the river and waterfall Šištica, the river and waterfall in Đajići Crni Vir, the Konjička Bijela, the Idbar, the Glogošnica, the Mostarska Bijela (also known as the Prenjska Bijela or Prenjska Rijeka), the Buna, the Bregava, the Krupa flow into it from the left. Towns and villages Towns and village on the Neretva include Ulog, Glavatičevo, Konjic, Čelebići, Ostrožac, Jablanica, Grabovica, Drežnica, Bijelo Polje, Vrapčići, Mostar, Buna village, historical town of Blagaj, Žitomislići, historical village of Počitelj, Tasovčići, Čapljina, Gabela in Bosnia and Herzegovina; and Metković, Opuzen, Komin, Rogotin, Ploče in Croatia. The biggest town on the Neretva river is Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Upper Neretva The upper course of the Neretva river is simply called the Upper Neretva ( ), and includes vast area around the Neretva, numerous streams and well-springs, three major glacial lakes near the very river and even more scatered across the mountains of Treskavica and Zelengora in wider area of the Upper Neretva, mountains, peaks and forests, flora and fauna of the area. All this natural heritage thogether with cultural heritage of Upper Neretva, representing rich and valuable resources of Bosnia and Herzegovina as well as Europe. The upper course of Neretva, Upper Neretva has water of Class I purity and is almost certainly the coldest river water in the world, often as low as 7-8 degrees Celsius in the summer months. Rising from the base of the Zelengora and Lebršnik mountain, Neretva heaswaters run in undisturbed rapids and waterfalls, carving steep gorges reaching 600-800 meters in depth through this remote and rugged limestone terrain. Rakitnica river river, main tributary of the Neretva at Upper Neretva section.]] Rakitnica is the main tributary of the first section of the Neretva river known as Upper Neretva ( ). The Rakitnica river formed a 26 km long canyon , of its 32 km lenght, that stretches between Bjelašnica and Visočica to southeast from Sarajevo.BHTourism - Rakitnica From canyon, there is a hiking trail along the ridge of the Rakitnica canyon, which drops 800m below, all the way to famous village of Lukomir. Village is the only remaining traditional semi-nomadic, Bosniak, mountain village in Bosnia and Herzegovina. At almost 1,500m, the village of Lukomir, with its unique stone homes with cherry-wood roof tiles, is the highest and most isolated mountain village in the country. Indeed, access to the village is impossible from the first snows in December until late April and sometimes even later, except by skies or on foot. A newly constructed lodge is now complete to receive guests and hikers. Dam problems The benefits brought by dams have often come at a great environmental and social cost , as dams destroy ecosystemsEnvironmental Impact of Dams and cause people to lose their homes and livelihoods. The Neretva and two main tributaries are allready harnessed, by four HE power-plants with large dams on Neretva, one HE power-plants with major dam on the Neretva tributary Rama, and two HE power-plants with one major dam on the Trebišnjica river, which is considered as part of the Neretva watershed. In recent times Republic of Srpska entity government finished infamous project named The Upper Horizons ( ), huge Hydroelectrical system project, which converted underground waters, that belonged directly in the Neretva watershed, to the Trebišnjica river existing HE power-plants as well as some recently erected in the Trebišnjica basin. This project was fiercely opposed not just by NGO's in Bosnia and Herzegovina and abroad, but also by the government of the Republic of Croatia. They unanimously argue that converting waters from the Neretva watershed to the Trebišnjica basin will affect, or even completely destroy by increasing salinity of surface as well as underground waters and every fresh water well-spring on the right bank of the Neretva, internationally recognized Ramsar sites and protected Nature Park Hutovo Blato in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Nature Park Neretva Delta in Croatia and more importantly reservoirs of fresh drinkable water and vast agricultural lands in lower Neretva valley, both in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia. Remain to be seen what will happened as result of this controversial project. Also, the government of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina entity has unveiled plans to build three more hydroelectric power plants with major dams (as over 150.5 meters in height) upstream from the existing plants, beginning with Glavaticevo Hydro Power Plant in the nearby Glavatičevo village, then going even more upstream Bjelimići Hydro Power Plant and Ljubuča Hydro Power Plant located near the villages with a same names; and in addition one more at the Neretva headwaters gorge, near the very source of the river in entity of Republic of Srpska by its entity government. This, if realized, would completely destroyed this jewel among rivers, so its strongly opposed and protested by numerous environmentalist organizations and NGO's, domestic as well as international , who wish for the canyon, considered at least beautiful as the Tara canyon in Bosnia and Herzegovina and nearby Montenegro, to remain untouched and unspoiled, hopefully protected too . Moreover, the same Government Of FBiH prepering a parallel plan to form a huge National Park which include entire region of Gornja Neretva ( ), and within Park those three hydroelectric power plants, which is unheard in the history of environmenatal protection. The latest idea is that the park should be divided in two, where the Neretva should be excluded from both and, in fact, become the boundary between parks. This is a cuning plan of engineers and related ministry in Government Of FBiH and should leave the river available for the construction of three large dams, and give them hope in order to remove the fear of contradiction in the plans for environmental protection in the area and the flooding its very heart, in terms of natural values - the Neretva. Of course, such deception failed, because the concerned citizens from the local community are not given bluff, as well as concerned citizens of whole country, and its particularly strongly opposed by NGOs and other institutions and organizations that are interested in establishing the National Park of Upper Neretva towards the professional and scientific principles and not according to the needs of electric energy lobby'Silenced Rivers: The Ecology and Politics of Large Dams, by Patrick McCully, Zed Books, London, 1996 . Vajont Dam reminder Ecology and protection Lakes Jablaničko Lake .]] Jablaničko Lake ( ) is a large artificially formed lake on the Neretva river, right below Konjic where the Neretva briefly expanding into a wide valley. River provided lot of fertile, agricultural land there, before lake flooded most of it. The lake was created in 1953 after construction of large gravitational hydroelectric dam near Jablanica in central Bosnia and Herzegovina. The lake has an irregular enlongated shape. Its width varies along its length. The lake is a popular vacation destiation in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Swimming, boating and especially fishing are popular activities on the lake. Many weekend cottages hae been built along the shores of the lake. There are 13 types of fish in the lake's ecosystem. But this, infact, is not an advantage as lake suffered from poor management of water and fisheries. Without any scientific and management plans or research, local fisheries and angling management introduced, alien, non-indigenous or non-native species, either deliberately or accidentally, which done more harm and damage than good. As the Neretva has many endemic and fragile species of fish that are near extinction, introductions of this invasive species, Pike Perch (Stizostedion lucioperca L.), completely destroying native endemic and highly endangered fish like Strugač (Leuciscus svallize svallize Heck. et Kn.) or (Squalius svallize) and Glavatica (Salmo marmoratus) (also known as Gonjavac) . Wetlands The valley along the last 30 km of the Neretva River, and the river itself, comprise a remarkable landscape. Downstream from the confluence of its tributaries, the Trebižat and Bregava rivers, the valley spreads into an alluvial fan covering 20,000 hectares. The upper valley, the 7,411 hectares in Bosnia and Herzegovina, is called Hutovo Blato. Ramsar site Neretva Delta has been recognised as a Ramsar site since 1992, and Hutovo Blato since 2001. Both areas form one integrated Ramsar site that is a natural entity divided by the state border . The Important Bird Areas programme, conducted by Birdlife International, covers protected areas in Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina . Hutovo Blato Since 1995, Hutovo Blato has been protected as a Hutovo Blato Nature ParkHutovo Blato Nature Park and managed by a public authority. The whole zone is well protected from human impact and functions as an important habitat for many plants and animals . Historical site, Old Fortress Hutovo Blato, is in the area of Nature Park. Nature Park “Hutovo Blato” is in the South-Western part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, 30 km from City of Mostar and near the Croatian border. It stretches over an area of about 7400 ha and represents the one of the richest wetland reserves in Europe. Until 1995, when the cantonal protected area was founded, Hutovo Blato represented well-known area mainly for its hunting and fishing tourism. Every winter over 200 species of birds find their shelter inside this untouched nature . Visitors can enjoy relaxation, recreational activities in nature, sport-fishing, cycling and main tourist attraction – '''photo safari. There is also an educational path providing information of park and for rising environmental awareness and need for preservation of natural heritage in Nature park “Hutovo Blato”. Gornje Blato-Deransko lake The part of the park which kept its original form and almost untouched nature. Gornje Blato-Deransko lake is supplied by the karstic water sources of the Trebišnjica river, emerging in the proximity of the bordering hills. It is hydro-geologically connected to the Neretva river through its effluent, the Krupa river, formed out of 5 lakes (Škrka, Deranja, Jelim, Orah, Drijen) and by large portions permanently flooded, also isolated by wide groves of reedbebds and trees, thus representing the most interesting preserved area . Krupa river The Krupa river is the Neretva left tributary and the main water current of Hutovo Blato, which leads the waters from Gornje Blato and Svitavsko lake into the Neretva river. The length of Krupa is 9 km with an average depth of 5 meters. The Krupa does not have an actual source, but is actually an arm of Deransko lake. Also, the Krupa is a unique river in Europe, because the river flows both ways. It flows ‘normally’ from the ‘source’ to the mouth and from the mouth to the ‘source’. This happens when, due to high water level and large quantity of water, river Neretva pushes the Krupa river in opposite direction . Neretva Delta , Croatia.]] Running past towns and villages in Bosnia and Herzegovina Neretva spills out into the Adriatic Sea, building a delta of wetlands so rich, it is listed under the Ramsar Convention as internationally important . In this lower valley in Croatia, the Neretva River splinters into multiple courses, creating a delta covering approximately 12,000 hectares. The delta in Croatia has been reduced by extensive land reclamation projects, and now river flows in just 3 branches, a drop from the previous 12. The marshes, lagoons and lakes that once dotted this plain have disappeared and only fragments of the old Mediterranean wetlands have survived. Hopefully area of Neretva Delta will become a Nature Park, as it has been proposed . The area presents a variety of habitats which form a beautiful and remarkable landscape. Wetlands, marshes and lagoons, lakes, beaches, rivers, hummocks (limestone hills) and mountains combine into a mosaic of natural habitats of Neretva Delta. Although five protected localities with a total surface of 1,620 ha already exist. These are the ornithological, ichthyologic reserves and the protected landscapes . Endemic and endangered species Dinaric karst water systems inhabit 25% of the total of 546 fish species in Europe. Watercourses of this area inhabits a large number of endemic species of fish. The river Neretva and its tributaries represent the main drainage system in the east Adriatic watershed and the foremost ichthyofaunal habitat of the region. According to Smith & Darwall (2006) the Neretva river, together with four other areas in the Mediterranean, has the largest number of threatened freshwater fish species. Degree of endemism in the karst eko-region is greater than 10% of the total number of fish species. Numerous species of fish that inhabited this area live in very narrow and limited areal and are vulnerable, so they are included on the Red List of endangered fish and the IUCN-2006. The Adriatic basin has 88 species of fish, of which 44 are Mediterranean endemic species, and 41 are Adriatic endemic species. More than half of the Adriatic river basins species of fish inhabit the Neretva, the Ombla, the Trebišnjica, the Morača rivers and their tributaries, and more than 30 are indigenous . Invasive species Pike Perch ( ) (Sander lucioperca Linnaeus 1758) (also see Sander (genus)) population in the Neretva river watershed was observed in 1990 for the first time. It was the Rama river, right tributary of the Neretva, and its Ramsko lake that received unknown quantity of this allochthonous species. Analyzing the results of the research, there are a tendency to increase the quantity of Pike Perch in the Neretva accumulation lakes. This fact confirms previous scientific assumptions of Škrijelj (1991, 1995), who predicted the possibility of Pike Perch displacement (migration) from the Ramsko lake to the Rama river (right tributary Neretva), and then further downstream to the river Neretva and lakes on the Neretva. So, from the 1.95% of total fish quantity of Rama lake in the year 1990, this allochthonous species of fish, in less than a decade that is present in Jablaničko Lake, raise to about 25.42% of all fish. Fast pace of Pike Perch population growth and displacements in the Neretva river basin, pointers to match environmental conditions from the mid-ecological valence of this fish. In this sense, it is established continuous and accelerated growth of the population dynamics of Pike Perch in Jablaničko Lake, a relatively good representation in artificial Salakovačko Lake and the beginning of growth of population in the Grabovičko Lake. Parallel with the increase of population allochthonous species Pike Perch in the Neretva lakes, it is obvious decrease in quantity of indigenous species like European chub also White Chub ( ) (Squalius cephalus), and the disappearance of rare and endemic species like Adriatic Dace also Balkan Dace ( ; ) (Squalius svallize also Leuciscus svallize Heckel & Kner 1858), Neretvan Softmouth trout ( ) (Salmothymus obtusirostris oxyrhinchus Steind.) and Marble trout ( also known as ) (Salmo marmoratus Cuv.). If this migration and spreading continues, other endangered, endemic and rare species of the Neretva basin will be even more endangered. On the basis of analysis of the obtained data, it can be concluded that the populations of allochthonous species Pike Perch causes clearly visible negative effects on the autochthonous ichthyofauna in Jablaničko Lake, on autochthonous ichthyofauna of artificial Salakovačko Lake these effects are in progress and less visible, while the population of Pike Perch is in the initial phase of adaptation to existing conditions in Grabovičko Lake and currently not yet clearly visible. Taking the fact that the introduction of Pike Perch has a substantial impact on the diversity of autochthonal ichthyofauna as a starting point, the population of this species in the Neretva river reservoirs (Jablaničko Lake, Grabovičko Lake and Salakovačko Lake) was investigated. Based on the results of the investigation of the Pike Perch population in the Neretva river “lakes”, it can also be concluded that it is growing with a tendency of spreading across the Neretva river basin of the Adriatic sea in Bosnia and Herzegovina. On the basis of all relevant indicators it is necessarily to take urgent measures, continuous and organized action, to dramatically reduce the quantity (if is not possible to exterminate) of this allochthonous types of fish, as well as to attempt to revitalize autochthonal fish populations, with fish stocking of local, especially salmonids species, all in order to prevent same fatal experience with water ecosystem in the UK, and prevent , if possible, this type of alohton species colonization of the Neretva river basins with irreversible effects. Salmonids Salmonids fishes from the Neretva basin show considerable variation in morphology, ecology and behaviour. The Neretva also has many other endemic and fragile life forms that are near extinction. Among most endangered are three endemic species of the Neretva trout: Neretvan Softmouth trout ( ) (Salmothymus obtusirostris oxyrhinchus Steind.) , Toothtrout ( also ) (Salmo dentex) and Marble trout ( also known as ) (Salmo marmoratus Cuv.) . Softmouth trout oxyrhynchus)]] Marble trout )]] Tooth trout )]] On the brink of extinction All three endemic trout species of the Neretva are endangered mostly due to the habitat destruction or construction of large and major dams (large as higher than 15-20 m; major as over 150-250 m) in particular and hybridization or genetic pollution with introduced, non-native trouts, also from illegal fishing as well as poor management of water and fisheries especially in form of introduction of invasive allochthonous species (dams, overfishing, mismanagement, genetic pollution, invasive species) . Cyprinids Same as the Neretva salmonids, most endangered of cyprinids (Cyprinidae family) are those of endemic species. Especially interesting are five Phoxinellus (sub)species that inhabits isolated karstic plains (fields) of eastern as well as western Herzegovina in Bosnia and Herzegovina, which eventually drains its waters to Neretva watershed and/or coastal drainages of south-eastern Dalmatia in Croatia. Karst Minnow ( ) (Phoxinellus metohiensis). It is considered Vulnerable (VU). South Dalmatian Minnow ( ) (Phoxinellus pstrossii). It is threatened but with Data Deficient (DD) fish vulnerability is not designated on IUCN Red List of Threatened Species Version 2009.1. Dalmatian Minnow ( ) (Phoxinellus ghetaldii). It is considered Vulnerable (VU). Adriatic Minnow ( also ) (Phoxinellus alepidotus) endemic to Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia, occurs in lowland water bodies, with little current. Is threatened due to pollution and habitat destruction . It is considered Endangered (EN). Spotted Minnow (Bosnian: Gaovica) ( ) (Phoxinellus adspersus) endemic to Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia. This species is present in the Tihaljina River, which is fed by underground waters from Imotsko field and is connected to the Trebižat river via the Mlada river also occurs in Mostarsko Blato wetlands. Fish was found in the source of the Norin River, a right-hand tributary of the lower Neretva at Metković, in Croatia, at Kuti Lake, the left-hand tributary of the lower Neretva, at Imotsko field in Crveno Lake and the Vrljika River drainage and near Vrgorac in the Matica river system . It is considered Vulnerable (VU). Minnow Nase Minnow Nase ( ) (Chondrostoma phoxinus) It is considered Critically Endangered (CR) Neretvan Nase Neretvan Nase (also Dalmatian Nase and Dalmatian Soiffe) ( ) (Chondrostoma knerii) is a fish species endemic to the Neretva river. Neretvan Nase is mainly distributed in the lower parts and delta of the Neretva river shared between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Neretva left tributary Krupa River, Nature Park Hutovo Blato wetlands, Neretva Delta wetlands. Occurs in water bodies with little current. Is threatened by habitat destruction and pollution . It is considered Vulnerable (VU). Adriatic Dace Adriatic Dace also Balkan Dace ( ; ) (Squalius svallize also Leuciscus svallize Heckel & Kner 1858) endemic to Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia, also to Montenegro and Albania. Adults inhabit water bodies on the low plains, with little current, lakes. Feed on invertebrates. It is threatened due to pollution, the habitat destruction and especially due to introduction of other species. It is considered Vulnerable (VU). Illyric Dace ( ) (Squalius illyricus also Leuciscus illyricus Heckel & Kner 1858) inhabits karstic waters of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia and Albania. Occurs in water courses on low plains, with little current. Feeds on invertebrates. Is threatened due to habitat destruction, pollution and the introduction of other species. It is considered Near Threatened (NT). Turskyi Dace ( ) (Leuciscus turskyi also Squalius turskyi turskyi and Telestes turskyi) inhabits karstic waters, lake Buško Blato in Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Krka and the Čikola rivers in Croatia. Occurs in water courses on the low plains, with little current and in lakes. Feeds on invertebrates. Is threatened due to water abstraction and pollution. It is considered Critically Endangered (CR). Dalmatian Barbelgudgeon Dalmatian Barbelgudgeon ( ) (Aulopyge hugeli) inhabits karstic streams of Glamocko field, Livanjsko field and Duvanjsko field, lakes Buško Blato, Blidinje in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Cetina, Krka and Zrmanja river drainages in Croatia. Occurs in lentic waters, feeds on plants. Fish is threatened by water pollution and habitat destruction. Migratory in Livanjsko field. It is considered Endangered (EN). Cobitidae Cobitis narentana|Neretvan Spined Loach Neretvan Spined Loach ( ) (Cobitis narentana Karaman, 1928) is Adriatic watershed endemic fish, inhabits a narrow area of the Neretva watershed in Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina (Mrakovčić et al., 2006). In Bosnia and Herzegovina inhabits only downstream of the Neretva river and its smaller tributaries like the Matica river. In Croatia Neretvanski vijun is strictly protected species and inhabits only in the Neretva delta and its smaller tributaries the (Norin) and lake systems of the Neretva delta (Baćina lakes, Kuti, Desne, Modro oko) (Mrakovčić et al., 2006). It is considered Vulnerable (VU). Neretva delta endemics Ichthyofauna of the Neretva delta is rich in endemic species, and there are more than 20 endemic species, of which 18 species are endemic species of Adriatic watershed, and three endemic species in Croatia. Nearly half of species (45%) of the total number of species that inhabit this area are included in one of the categories of threat, and are mainly endemic species . Cultural and historical significance References to Neretva have been traced as far back as ancient times. In the era of ancient Bosnia and Herzegovina, during the time of Cyclopean masonry and Troy, Neretva was known as Narenta, Narona and Naro(n) Archeological Musem of Narona The Ancient City of Narona Neven Kazazovic, Tajne Neretve, and was home to the ancient Illyrian tribe of ArdiaeiJohn Wilkes, "The Illyrians". Neretva provided them life, turned them into ship makers, seafarers and fishermen that were renowned in ancient times. There have been numerous archaeological discoveries of material and spiritual Illyrian culture, such as the discovery of ancient Illyrian shipwrecks found in Hutovo Blato, in the vicinity of Neretva river http://www.apollon.uio.no/vis/art/2008_4/artikler/illyrer_english. Illyrians The Illyrians are said to have made their appearance on the Balkan peninsula sometime around 1300 BC in the land that would become known as Illyria (Ancient Greek: ; ''Charlton T. Lewis, Charles Short, ''A Latin Dictionary at Perseus, [http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/cgi-bin/ptext?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A1999.04.0059%3Aentry%3D%2321597 Illyria]; see also Illyricum). The appearance of the Illyrians restrained the Thracians, who until then, were the only northern neighbors of the greeks just to the east. Their lands spanned the coast of the Adriatic and stretched inland, and crossed, the Danube river. The Illyrians lived by hunting, fishing and agriculture. They were known as warriors and pirates. According to the accoutns of ancient Greek authors, Illyrians parted from the tribal organisation of their society as early as 300's B.C., when they started forming their first kingdoms, one of the most notable being the Kingdom of Bardylis.Stipčević, Aleksandar; Iliri-povijest i kultura, Školska Knjiga, 1989. However, the most glorious pages of ancient Illyrian history were written under the Illyrian Kingdom of king Agron, himself Ardiaean, succeeded by his widow wife queen Teuta. Roman chronicles hold Queen Teuta responsible for inciting Roman intervention in Illyria and the start of Illyrian wars of 229 BC and 219 BC, for she allegedly did not suppress Illyrian piracy, but a historic account written by Romans themselves is not necessarily the most objective one. Many modern historians see the "Illyrian piracy" as nothing more than a political excuse of ancient Romans to invade ancient Illyria, and the rest of the ancient Balkans, which they obviously didStipčević, Aleksandar; Iliri-povijest i kultura, Školska Knjiga, 1989. During the Illyrian Wars of 229 BC and 219 BC, Rome overran the Illyrian settlements (see also List of Illyrian cities) in the Neretva river valley and suppressed the piracy that had made the Adriatic and Neretva Delta unsafe Not only did Illyrians fight Greek colonists and Roman occupants, the various tribes and later kingdoms also feuded among themselves. However, the archaeological finds show that the Illyrians also had peaceful trade connections with the Romans. Between the 6th and 8th centuries the Slavs appeared and settled in Illyrian territories while proceeded to assimilate Illyrian tribes in much of what is now Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Kosovo, Montenegro, Republic of Macedonia, Serbia, and Slovenia. After the province of Illyricum was divided into Dalmatia and Pannonia in 10th century, the terms "Illyria" and "Illyrian" would generally go out of use, but would still be used in some circles. The name Illyria was revived by Napoleon for the 'Illyrian Provinces' used to refer to the "South Slavic Provinces" within the Napoleonic French Empire from 1809 to 1813, and the Kingdom of Illyria was part of Austria until 1849, after which time it was not used in the reorganised Austro-Hungarian Empire. Daorsi , Ošanići near Stolac, Bosnia and Herzegovina, 3th century BC.]] ancient bronze coins, found at Daorson site, Bosnia and Herzegovina.]] Daors was the name of an Illyrian tribe Wilkes, J. J. The Illyrians, 1992,ISBN 0631198075,From back matter,"... "`Surveys of ships on coins of the Daors tribe'" . Another name of the tribe was Daversi''Wilkes, J. J. The Illyrians, 1992,ISBN 0631198075,page 216,"... to the Romans, `once the ravagers of Italy' and now reduced to a mere 20 decuriae, and the Daorsi or Daversi, ...". 'Daorson' (Ancient Greek: Δαορσών'') was a Hellenistic city of the Illyrian Daorsi, in Ošanići near Stolac in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Daorson was built on a Bronze Age site, with continuous occupation from the 17th century BC, the principal structures date from the 4th century BC (the cyclopean wall, see also Cyclopean masonry) until the 1st century BC when occupation ceased . Daors also made unique bronze coinshttp://books.google.com/books?id=4Nv6SPRKqs8C&pg=PA177 Wilkes, J. J. The Illyrians, 1992,ISBN 0631198075,page 177,"... Two other coinages of Illyrian peoples are dated to the period following 168B(:. Those with the legend DAORSON with a galley on the reverse were produced by the Daorsi. ...". Ardiaei and Narensii achaeological underwater site at Hutovo Blato Nature Park, Bosnia and Herzegovina. (Photo: University of Mostar)]] Their original homeland is said to have been around the modern Neretva river , in present-day Bosnia and Herzegovina. In ancient times this river was known as Narenta/Naro(n)/Narona, and the connotation with the name of an Illyrian tribe Narensii seems obvious. They were called by Romans "Vardiaei"Wilkes, J. J. The Illyrians, 1992,ISBN 0631198075..page 216,"The Ardiaei, or Vardaei as they were known to the Romans, `once the ravagers of Italy' and now reduced to a mere ...". Narensii (Ardiaei), once an inland tribe, eventually settled on the Adriatic coastWilkes, J. J. The Illyrians, 1992,ISBN 0631198075.,page 188,"probably the result of pressure from new Illyrian groups, including the Ardiaei and Delmatae, moving towards the Adriatic. ..."". The ancient geographer, Strabo, lists the Ardiaei as one of the three strongest tribes - the other two being the Autariatae and the Dardani. The whole of the mountainous country that stretches alongside Pannonia from the recess of the Adriatic as far as the Rhizonic Gulf and the land of the Ardiaei is Illyrian, falling as it does between the sea and the Pannonian tribes.(Strabon, Geographika, 7. 5. 3) Treasures - Desilo underwater site at Hutovo Blato, Bosnia and Herzegovina.]] After intense excavations in the area of Hutovo Blato in the autumn of 2008, archaeologist from Bosnia and Herzegovina University of Mostar and Norway University of Lund found the very first traces of an Illyrian trading post that is more than two thousand years old. The find is unique in a European perspective and archaeologist have concluded that Desilo, as the location is called, was an important trading post of great significance for contact between the Illyrians and the Romans. Surprisingly large finds have been made in a short period of time. The archaeologists have discovered the ruins of a settlement, the remains of a harbour that probably functioned as a trading post, as well as many sunken boats, fully-laden with wine pitchers – so-called amphorae – from the 1st century B.C . The archaeologist Adam Lindhagen, who has a PhD from the University of Lund and has specialised in Roman wine amphorae, says that this is the most important find of all time from the Illyrian areas . The Old Bridge (Stari Most) over the Neretva, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina.]] diving into the Neretva competition, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina.]] The Old Bridge (Bosnian: Stari most) was commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1557 to replace an older wooden suspension bridge of dubious stability. Construction began in 1557 and took nine years: according to the inscription the bridge was completed in 974 AH (islamic calendar), corresponding to the period between July 19, 1566 and July 7, 1567. Little is known of the building of the bridge, and all that has been preserved in writing are memories and legends and the name of the builder, Mimar Hayruddin (student of the Old/Great Sinan (Mimar Sinan / Koca Sinan), the Ottoman architect). Charged under pain of death to construct a bridge of such unprecedented dimensions, the architect reportedly prepared for his own funeral on the day the scaffolding was finally removed from the completed structure. Upon its completion it was the widest man-made arch in the world. Certain associated technical issues remain a mystery: how the scaffolding was erected, how the stone was transported from one bank to the other, how the scaffolding remained sound during the long building period. As a result, this bridge can be classed among the greatest architectural works of its time. On November 9, 1993, during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina it was destroyed by Croatian HVO sustained artillery shelling, in attempt to erase any sign of Ottoman architecture in Bosnia . After the war, immediate plans were raised to reconstruct the bridge as a symbol of peace and ethnic harmony, literally bridging the two sides of the conflict. It was important to use as much of the original material as possible. Salvage operations, funded by the international community, raised the stones and the remains of the bridge from the river bed. Missing elements or parts that were not usable, were cut from the same quarry where the original stones came from. Now listed as a World Heritage Site, the bridge was rebuilt under the aegis of UNESCO. Its 1,088 stones were shaped according to the original techniques, and the reconstruction cost about €12 million. The grand opening was held on July 23, 2004. Diving It is traditional for the young men of the town to leap from the 24 meter high bridge into the Neretva. As the Neretva is very cold, this is a very risky feat and only the most skilled and best trained divers will attempt it. The practice dates back to 1566, the time the bridge was built, and it was held every summer ever since in front of the huge audience. However, the first recorded instance of someone diving off the bridge is from 1664. In 1968 a formal diving competition was inaugurated and held every summer Diving Club Mostar. Počitelj historical village over the old city of Počitelj, Bosnia and Herzegovina.]] and Watch Tower as viewed from the Citadel over the Počitelj, Bosnia and Herzegovina.]] Počitelj is situated on a hill near Mostar and is easily accessible by bus. As many other Bosnian sites, this town is Ottoman in its nature. It is a historic fortified town with a hostel (caravanserai) and a hamam underneath it. There is also a traditional mosque which can be visited. During the Bosnian War Pocitelj was badly damaged and most of its residents fled away and never returned. Nonetheless, some Bosniaks still reside in this beautiful town and still enjoy the unique atmosphere of their traditional houses and foodhttp://www.worldheritagesite.org/countries/bosnia.html World Heritage Sites in Bosnia Herzegovina. Mogorjelo ancient Roman suburban Villa Rustica from the 4th century, near Čapljina, Bosnia and Herzegovina.]] One of the most significant monuments of Roman times in Bosnia and Herzegovina is certainly Mogorjelo, a yet another pearl of Neretva's long strand of pearls of ancient cultural and natural heritage sites. Located 1 kilometer south of town of Čapljina, Mogorjelo remainings of the old Roman suburban Villa Rustica from the 4th century represents ancient Roman agricultural production and estate, mills, bakeries, olive oil refinery and forges Mogorjelo on the Vine route of Herzegovina. The destruction of the Villa came in the middle of the 4th century, during the invasion of western Goths. Residents, who have survived invasion and destruction, did not have any further opportunities to renew it in a full splendor. There are two theories about the name of Mogorjelo. First one assumes that the place had burnt several times, so the root of the name was derived from a word “burn” (slavic - goriti). Another theory is that at the end of the 5th century the church was built on the ruins of Villa, and it was dedicated to St. Hermagor – Mogoru, by which the site was named Čapljina municipality - Mogorjelo. Gabela on the Neretva river, near Čapljina, Bosnia and Herzegovina.]] Gabela, a rich archeological site on the Neretva bank. Situated 5 kilometres south of the town of Čapljina. Among a great number of notable mideval buildings, there are still remains of Old City walls, as well as a sculpture of a stone lion – a symbol of Venetian culture. For its remarkable geostrategic position, Gabela was linked to the most famous Homer's work - Iliad. Mexican Homeric scholar and amateur archeologist Roberto Salinas Price has claimed that Gabela was actually ancient Homer's Troy Homer: Towards a better understanding of the Iliad and Odyssey Salinas-Price Atlas of Homeric Geography Price Homers Blind Audience. Narona Battle of the Neretva The famous Battle of Neretva is 1969 Oscar-nominated motion picture depicting real events from the Second World War and the actual Battle of the Neretva (Bosnian, Croatian, Serbian, Serbo-Croatian: Bitka na Neretvi)Bitka na Neretvi (1969)(Battle of the Neretva) IMDb. Codenamed Fall Weiss, the operation was a German strategic plan for a combined Axis attack launched in early 1943 against the Yugoslav Partisans throughout occupied Yugoslavia during the Second World War. The offensive took place between January and April 1943. The operation is generally known as the Fourth anti-Partisan Offensive, while it is also known as the Fourth Enemy Offensive (Četvrta neprijateljska ofenziva/ofanziva) or the Battle for the Wounded (Bitka za ranjenike). At some point, during the battle, the Partisans were caught in a pocket with their back to the Neretva river. The movie depicting events that had happened on the banks of river Neretva near Jablanica while 20,000 Partisans under command of Marshal Tito struggled to save some 4500 wounded comrades and typhus patients together with Supreme Headquarters and Main Hospital against some 150,000 Axis combatantsOperation WEISS - The Battle of Neretva. Also read References Featured Video thumb|500px|right|Upper Neretva headwaters facing total destruction from hydro-power lobbies and several dam constructionthumb|500px|left|Saving the Neretva River from Destruction External links * ZELENI-NERETVA Konjic NGO For Preservation Of The Neretva River And Environment Protection * [http://zeleni-neretva.ba/downloads/deklaracijaozastiti.zip Declaration For The Protection Of The Neretva River] for download - Declaration Initiator, ZELENI-NERETVA Konjic NGO For Preservation Of The Neretva River And Environment Protection * WWF Panda - Living Neretva * Regional Programme for Cultural and Natural Heritage in South East Europe Council of Europe - Directorate of Culture, Cultural and Natural Heritage * Balkan Trout Restoration Group Site * International Rivers * Interactive site that demonstrates dams' effects on rivers * Center of expertise on hydropower impacts on fish and fish habitat, Canada * REC Transboundary Cooperation Through the Management of Shared Natural Resources * INWEB Internationally Shared Surface Water Bodies in the Balkan Region * Ramsar Convention on Wetlands > Transboundary management of the lower Neretva valley - background * Rehabilitation Design of the Old Bridge of Mostar * Bosnia and Herzegovina Commission for Preservation of National Monuments - The Stari Most * Pictures of Old Bridge - before, during and after destruction by Belgian photographer Laurent Van der Stockt - Time magazine * Narenta * Wine route Herzegovina * Hutovo Blato Nature Park * Neretva Delta * Delta Neretve - od močvare do intenzivne poljoprivrede * Hutovo Blato Nature Park — Network of Adriatic Parks * Stari Most - Old Bridge * Počitelj * Archeological Musem of Narona in Vid, Croatia * Troy - possible locations within Neretva valley * Geografija.hr * Čapljina municipality * Diving Club Mostar * Konjicani * Neretva.org Open Project * Rafting Neretva * Ambasada Neretva Rafting Category:Rivers of Bosnia and Herzegovina Category:Visitor attractions in Bosnia and Herzegovina Category:Tourism in Bosnia and Herzegovina Category:Protected areas of Bosnia and Herzegovina Category:Conservation in Bosnia and Herzegovina Category:Environment of Bosnia and Herzegovina Category:Geography of Bosnia and Herzegovina Category:Settlements in Bosnia and Herzegovina Category:Rivers of Croatia Category:International rivers Category:Browse